(Also known as festival of bull running fiesta, fiesta of Pamplona, the fiesta of the bulls, Spanish bull fiesta, the running of the bulls, Pamplona bull running, Pamplona fiesta, Pampalona, fiesta of Pamplona, Pamplona celebration, San Fermin fiestas, Fiesta San Fermin, Il fete di San Fermin, Pamplona san fermin, spain summer festivals, encierro, enciero, encierro bulls)
If New York is the city that never sleeps, Pamplona is the village that never sleeps, well at least for 1 week every year ! This rural village in the heart of Spanish Basque land pays homage to bulls with arguably the greatest party in the world. Run with the bulls on the streets or rent an overlooking balcony for the perfect Birdseye view. Dance, drink and sing the nights and days away - it’s all here.
When
Fiesta San Fermin begins 6th July until 14th July, every year. The first run takes place at 8am on the 7th July. The most crowded times to go are the opening ceremony - TXUPINAZO, closing ceremony and weekends. If you are feeling young go at these times as it is anarchy! Midweek is usually a family affair.
The Bull Run
The Bull run is 800 metres long divided in 2 legs. The first from the bull pen to Calle Estafeta (iron borders swing across the street separating the 2 legs) and the second from Calle Estafeta to the Bull Ring.
Pick 1 leg to run the first has a few bends and some excellent singing to the saint San Fermin, the 2nd leg is straight, easier and finishes in the Bull Ring in front of about 40,000 spectators.
On July 9th 2006 (after my fourth run) I saw a runner complete the full course (on TV replay) start to finish ! Don’t try this. I don’t use this word lightly on my website but here goes - Hero.
Get to your starting area, bring a rolled up newspaper – an approved (bull butt batting object) and sit tight from 5.30am if you want to guarantee a place.
Wooden and iron barricades are bordering the streets about 7ft. tall each side along the route. This blocks off side streets, gives spectators an excellent view and also provides runners with an entrance or escape route to the run. There are gaps narrow enough to block a bull but wide enough for a person to slip through.
At 8am a rocket is set off to alert townsfolk that the bulls have been released, though shouts of "¡Ahí va! ¡Ahí va!" (There it goes, there it goes) warns people the bulls are near. Non-runners head for the barricades or climb onto balconies.
Be careful where Calle Mercaderes meets Calle Estafeta - this corner is the most dangerous part of the course. The run should take 2/3 minutes; allow a few seconds more for separated bulls to reach their pen in the bull ring. The bulls often get separated, usually when they run to fast into a corner or slip on the greasy street.
Sometimes they stop running and get disorientated preferring instead to charge goading spectators. Remember these bulls have been trained to complete the course with no runners. In a confused state they can charge.
Important if you fall whilst running in front of the bulls, the recommended defense is to stay down on the ground with your hands on your head. Bulls are attracted to moving objects.
For this reason, a herd of steers are released in a second wave to collect strays. A run is considered good if the bulls flow swiftly. Many think its good luck to touch a bull; locals frown upon this as it can distract the bull.
The running of the bulls ends with the bulls returning to the bullring. Be careful entering as the tunnel is very narrow and if you fall the crowds will trample you.
On my first run I saw a runner drop his camera (not allowed if you are a runner, if you bring it be sure you have zip pocket) in this tunnel. He stopped to pick it up and was completely trampled by the crowd. Runners will not stop for anything short of a bull !
As you enter the ring you will be greeted by thousands of cheers and the sounds of brass bands.
You will feel like a gladiator !
Don’t be to distracted because even though the bulls who completed the run are gone there is still a smaller bull to be released every few minutes.
The bulls are then guided out and many of the runners remain in the ring. Usually bulls or calves are released back into the ring and the remaining runners tease and goad the bulls for the amusement of the crowd. You can tap the bull on the ass with your newspaper. This is standard, approved and fun.
DO NOT pull its tail, kick it, wrestle it or try to play with its horns.
In 2006 I saw a runner in the ring near, who was physically big, grab the bull by the horns and try to push it to the ground. He succeeded, the bull collapsed under his force and his face went into the ground.
Suddenly the crowd stopped singing and BOOO’ed him, a crowd of about 30 locals started to beat this stupid tourist to a pulp. There was so many people that all he could do was run away. They followed and continued to beat him.
Meanwhile the furious bull was completely confused and disorientated running around the ring in an unpredictable manner inflicting harm to itself and anyone near him. I spoke with the tourist after – it was a bet! But a stupid one and he was lucky to get away with a savage beating.
When a bull gets out of control in the bull ring a steer is sent in to rescue it. They are trained to follow the steer out of the ring. These steers are very big but not violent, if you see them get out of the way. It means a bull calf will follow. These calves can cause a lot of harm a tourist was paralyzed by one on the opening day in 2007, so beware.
In short the locals worship the bulls so no monkey business. Remember Bulls are attracted to moving objects and use only your rolled up newspaper to defend yourself against a 1 ton bull!
Bull Fights Surprisingly these are not popular with the locals and only occur once a year -during the fiesta.
These take place in the bull ring/corrida de toros (the same as the finish to the second leg of the run) The bulls which are all killed are the very bulls which ran that morning. Tickets can be purchased from touts near the gates expect to pay up to €60 per ticket.
What to wear
Something red, something white! One of the most remarkable attributes of this fiesta is how involved everyone is. The entire town dresses in red and white.
Quality red and white traditional clothes can be purchased at a very low price from street vendors. No sandals- it will be glass on the ground so socks and runners (red & white if possible!)
Where to drink Harp bar is a excellent Irish bar & international meeting spot. Its located on no. 12 Caill San Gregario or else just soak up the Carnival atmosphere on the streets. In typical Spanish style expect giant puppets falling around the place.
Kalimotxo (pronounced calimocho)is one of many local drinks. It is made by mixing red wine and coca cola, some ice also helps. You can buy these ingredients very cheaply at a shop and enjoy a tour of the town with a drink. Or even as dutch courage for bull running.
How to start a Kalimotxo fight - Some people would rather throw it then drink it.
Where to eat
Located just above the Harp bar on Calle San Gregorio, you would be forgiven for missing Al Arpa restaurant ask for Owen. Tell him Darce & the rest of the Irish lads said HI ! Good food which you will deserve after achieving such Viking drinking feats during bull running.
There is an excellent range of tapas and traditional food on offer from street vendors and in bars.
Where to stay
There are 3 options, based on personal experience here are the best
Sleep on the streets – lock your bag at a locker in the train station and go back there when you need you sleeping bag, toothbrush or money. There is plenty of grassy knolls to get a little shut eye but do not keep money on you.
If you do make sure you sleep on the pocket your money is in. The first time I went Bull running in Pamplona I spent 5 days sleeping on the streets !
I have since stayed in the Husa Avenida Hostel in the town's business district. Which was a great location and we were able to sneak people into it.
Hotels in Pamplona are very expensive and lack the macho atmosphere of apartments & hostels.
Many tour groups provide transport to Pamplona from a campsite. However these can be located up to 100 kilometres away ! You have to work on their schedule and will miss certain events. Better to splash out and take accomodation central to Pamplona.
Or you could Rent a local Pamplona town centre Apartment from www.pamplona.co.uk
I did this in 2006, was excellent. Accomodation is always expensive during San Fermin Fiesta, so it's worth the price to be in the city centre. Especially if you're going just for a weekend.
DONT MISS THIS The Bull running opening ceremony txupinazo 12pm July 6th is the stuff of legends, marred with the world’s largest food fight in the square at the centre of the village as the mayor pops champagne the crowd erupts and crazy games continue long into the night until the morning. (of July 13th !!!!)
Also you must witness, if not partake in a bull run. They begin at 8am every morning and finish at roughly 8.05 in the bull ring which is full of people singing and cheering. Watch from the streets or witness the mayhem in the bull ring.
Dangers/annoyances Local police have to resort to desperate measures to control the crowd at peak bull running times be sure to obey them. They are an authority onto themselves. Local pickpockets are widespread, be sure not to keep more then you are willing to spend on you at any one time.
Typically they do not confront or threaten people; however they are very skilled at pick pocketing. If you are near a bull it is acceptable to tap it on the bottom with a rolled up newspaper but do not attempt to pull it’s tail, kick it or to take it by the horns as locals will react violently. Watch out of overcrowding on the bull run.
The Gay scene
There is a good gay scene in Pamplona at the Bull running festival, in the old part of town try El Mesón (in Navarreria) or the Nicolette (in Tejeria). Also San Juan (ten minutes walk from the old part) there are three bars. El Alakarga, for example, where there is a good atmosphere for couples of all types, men or women. In the M-40 bar the atmosphere is exclusively male. The Mineo is the newest bar and a lot of people like it.
Airports
Pamplona has it's own domestic airport, serviced by Iberia airlines from Madrid and Barcelona daily. Also Aviaco and LAN airlines fly there. Taxis can be hard to get during the fiesta so there is this hotline number 232300. Its 7kms into the centre of Pamplona.
The nearest international airport to Pamplona is Vitoria, which is operated only by Ryanair. You can fly into San Sebastian or Bilbao and take a train or bus which run regularly.
You can also fly into Biarritz and take a train. If you are stuck you can fly into Barcelona or Madrid then take a 6-8 hour bus this is the best time of year to visit these lively cities so a detour wouldn’t be such a bad idea!
Train
Buy Your bull running train tickets at www.renfe.es Bus
San Sebastian & Bilbao also have a regular bus service which will take under 3 hours.
Internet
Try world 7 located on Detras de la Catedral it's open until 10pm
Bank/ATM
Banco Bilbao on avenida Carlos, but I would advise you not to take out too much money as there are pickpockets. Also Pamplona during Fiesta San Fermin is very cheap apart from accomadation.
Weather
It is always hot & humid. The majority of days have blue skies with the odd overcast day speckled here and there. There are ways to cool off besides bull running– namely sangria spraying fights!
Festival Pig Fact
Ernest Hemmingway is credited with bringing this cultured event to the world’s attention in his 1926 novel about the Spanish Civil War The Sun Also Rises. 15 people have been killed in Pamplona and over 200 serious casualties.
A little tight on cash ? It's possible to find work in Pamplona during San Fermin Bull Running fiesta with the bull runners at www.pamplona.co.uk